I don’t know why, but I love doing hikes to a fire tower – maybe it’s just the novelty of seeing a man-made structure after walking through miles of wilderness. Granite Mountain Trail takes you up, up, and up to the top of a mountain with a lookout that was originally built in 1924.
This hike is 8.6 miles out and back, with 3800 ft of elevation gain. It’s relentlessly uphill, so be prepared for your legs to hurt!
Getting to the Trailhead
The trailhead for Granite Mountain is right off of I-90, to the east of Seattle. When I moved to Washington, I quickly realized that many of the best hiking trails required driving long distances on windy gravel roads covered with potholes. So the ease of access is a huge plus to this trail.
I arrived at the trailhead at 8:30 AM and the parking lot was already full, with more cars parked along the road leading to the trail head. So if you’re wondering how early you need to get to a popular trail near Seattle on a beautiful summer day to beat the crowds, the answer is much earlier than 8:30 AM!
When I go hiking alone, I actually prefer to be on busy trails because if anything were to happen, there are plenty of people around to provide assistance! Plus it’s much more difficult to get lost.
The hike to Granite Mountain shares a trailhead with Pratt Lake trail, and you must have a Northwest Forest Pass to park there ($30 for a yearly pass).
Granite Mountain trail starts off suspiciously easy!
The first mile is a gradual climb and wanders though a beautiful forest, crossing a few streams. After 1.2 miles, the trail splits off with Pratt Lake to the left and Granite Mountain to the right.
At this point, the trail begins steep switchbacks up the mountain. After about a mile you leave the shade of the forest and enter alpine meadows. The views are spectacular, but if it’s hot there’s no shelter from the sun.
If you look to the south, you can see Mt. Rainier peek out above the other mountains as you gain elevation. There are several other peaks that present themselves, providing 360 degree mountain views.
There are two ways to get to the summit.
Towards the top there is a small meadow, with two options for reaching the summit: the “boulder route” is to the left, and requires scrambling on boulders along the ridge, and the “summer route” to the right, which is slightly longer, but gently ascends through the meadow.
The summer route is often covered with snow until late July, which can make the boulder route more attractive to some people. I did this hike on July 14, and there were still a few patches of snow. All the snow was on flat ground however, which made it easy to traverse.
I was a bit confused by the different options at first and ended up doing the boulder route up to the top and coming down on the summer route. The boulder route is definitely more scenic and provides ridiculously amazing views in either direction along the ridge. It does require some minor scrambling over rocks, and if you have a dog you will have to take the summer route.
Take a few minutes to enjoy the scenery at the summit!
The lookout tower is normally closed to the public, but provides a nice spot to rest and eat lunch. On a nice day in the summer, expect the summit to be quite crowded. Luckily, the abundance of boulders on the ridge provides ample spots to rest while enjoying the views.
Unfortunately, what goes up must come down, and descending a steep trail like this one can be difficult on the knees. I kept thinking I was almost to the end, but the trail just kept going!
It took me about 5 hours to do the entire hike, but that includes spending some time at the top to eat and take photos.
Overall, I highly recommend this trail to anyone who wants a great workout with a nice payoff at the end.
We’d only been in Greece for a week or so when we learned about the Samaria Gorge trail race happening on May 6. It takes place along the famous Samaria Gorge trail in Crete, which is one of the most popular hikes in Europe.
In a road race, the number most people pay attention to is the length (5k, 10k, half-marathon, etc). In trail racing, there are two important numbers: distance and elevation gain. This is because roads are graded for vehicles and typically don’t experience extreme climbs/descents like trails can.
Turns out, the Samaria Gorge Trail Race was 17.6 km and roughly 1000 m of elevation gain. For those of us inclined to imperial measurements, 11 miles and 3280 ft of gain. That by itself is no joke.
Now, in trail races there’s also a way to describe the difficulty of a race by how “technical” it is. This means that there are more obstacles that slow down your running: rocks, roots, mud, etc. In a road race, your speed is mostly based on your cardio and endurance ability. But a highly technical trail race can slow down the most in-shape runner if they aren’t prepared for it.
If you’ve ever been to Crete, then you know where this is going. Crete – and all the Greek islands in this area – is full of rocks. Do you know how much harder it is to run on a path littered with sharp rocks ranging from the size of a fist to the size of your head? Add to that a steep downhill section and the Samaria Gorge trail race’s technicality score skyrockets. Of course there’s no concrete number for this and the difficulty is largely subjective, but I think most people would agree with me on this one.
To my surprise, 6 of my fellow coworkers also signed up for this race. I’m usually alone on crazy escapades like this, and finding solid friends to do stuff like this with me is one of my weaknesses. To be fair, one person thought the race was 6 miles on the 11th of May instead of 11 miles on the 6th of May – he had a rough time, to say the least!
The Samaria Gorge trail race is partly along the Samaria Gorge trail, which is the most popular walking trail in Crete, and one of the most popular in Europe. The race started at 8:30 AM on the Omalos plateau, about a km along the road before the start of the trail. This allowed the runners to space out a bit before entering the narrow trail, which we had to share with tourists. The first section along the road was also uphill, which is a bit of a rude awakening for the start of a race. We ran past a herd of sheep that cheered us on, which added to the general Greek mountainside ambience.
The easy footing on the roadway abruptly gave way to a steep, rocky descent as we entered the trail. I am not particularly good at navigating downhill terrain, and I also have no interest in losing my footing and falling off the mountain, so I was passed quite a bit here. Eventually I got behind a group of runners and was able to mirror their footsteps and keep a decent pace. We also had to dodge the hikers, which added to the difficulty. The race is early enough in the season and the day to avoid the worst crowds, but you’ll end up passing plenty of people anyways.
Unfortunately the difficult terrain meant I didn’t have much time to enjoy the scenery, which is absolutely beautiful in this area. At around 4.7km we reached the lowest elevation point, where we left the actual Samaria Gorge trail and entered a side trail. This is also where the long uphill section started, which I honestly preferred to the slightly terrifying downhill run.
This also afforded me more time to take in the breathtaking surrounding mountains as we climbed endless switchbacks up the shrub-covered hillside. This section consisted of almost all the total elevation gain of the race (about 3000ft), which translates to feeling like you’re never going to reach the top. This race, although somewhat small, was very well-supported and included at least 5 water stops along the climb (I was too tired to count!).
I did pass a few people along this section, although I was feeling my lack of long-distance runs in training towards the end. I managed to catch up to two of my coworkers. One fell behind, but the other continued with me all the way to the end of the race. Reaching the top of this climb was a huge boost and they had an aid station with fruit and chocolate! I didn’t partake because I had some energy chews, but it was a nice touch.
The next section was a mostly downhill dirt road to the finish. I call it a dirt road, but once again, this is Crete, so the road is actually full of large rocks. This section was absolutely beautiful to look at but was murder on my feet. I was already not used to being on my feet for this long, but adding in the constant navigating of rocky terrain and I think all of us were in pain.
The most frustrating part was that the gentle downhill would have been perfect for cruising along – if it weren’t for those darn rocks! I was forced to slow down significantly because I was tired and becoming more prone to tripping. It was nice to have company along this section and we commiserated about how much our feet hurt.
I was developing a blister on my left heel, which at first I thought was a rock stuck in my shoes. After trying to shake out my shoes a couple of times, I realized that the pain in my heel wasn’t going away and resigned myself to stick it out. I’ve never gotten a blister on my heel before, but it turns out that it happens often on long, steep downhills if your shoes are slipping slightly on your feet. Next time I’ll make sure to tie my shoes a bit tighter.
There were regular signs updating us on how far we had left, so we counted down the distance to the end as we went. The very last half km section left the road and took a narrow trail down the hillside to the finish area, which was at the start of the Samaria Gorge trail. This was where my frustration with myself peaked. I was very tired, my feet were killing me, and my balance and coordination was shot. I felt like I had enough energy to run the rest of the way to the finish, but the uneven path meant I was constantly stumbling if I went more quickly than a fast walk. At one point I fell and thrust my hand into a bush with stinging thorns, which was icing on the cake.
Finally I reached the end of the trail and ran the last section in to the finish. I managed to finish in 3:17, which I was pretty proud of. Because of the factors I talked about earlier, it can be really difficult to judge or predict finish times for trail runs. I managed to finish only ten minutes behind my fastest coworker and one minute behind the other. The others ranged anywhere from five minutes to an hour behind me. I’m generally not a super competitive person, but considering all my coworkers are men, I was pretty happy with myself.
After collecting my medal I collapsed on the asphalt next to our group and basked in the sun. The post-race food consisted of unlimited chicken souvlaki sticks and traditional Cretan rusk topped with tomato mixture (not sure what it’s actually called), and beer. I got a cup of beer before it ran out, and the souvlaki sticks never ran out and were delicious.
Overall, the Samaria Gorge trail race was an excellent race and I highly recommend it to anyone who happens to be in Crete in early May! I have to admit, being there with good friends made it so much more fun. We all commiserated and celebrated with each other, and we kept talking about this day throughout the next month.
I’m already thinking about the next race I’m going to sign up for when I’m back in the Pacific Northwest. I found out recently that I’m moving to Bahrain in February, so I need to soak up the mountains as much as possible in the next several months!
I’m writing this at the airport, where I’m waiting to get on a one-way plane ride back to the US, saying goodbye to the place I’ve called home the past 3 months. It’s bittersweet because while it’s always nice to come home, I’ve grown very attached to this wonderful piece of the world.
I’m writing this to reflect on all the amazing memories I’ve made here and I’ve included some of my favorite pictures. I know I’m insanely lucky to be able to come here and I’m forever grateful for the series of events that led to this. I’ve spent a total of six months of my life in Crete, and to be honest I don’t know if it ever would have occurred to me to visit here if I didn’t have to for work. Trust me when I say it’s definitely a place worth visiting!
In no particular order, these are the things I’ll miss:
Saying “Calli Mera” (good morning) to everybody
The “third lane” on the highway. You can tell the locals apart from tourists because they move over to the right to allow others to pass in the middle of the two lane road.
Getting a fredo espresso, sketo, from five minute mart (that’s an iced espresso with no sugar)
Amazing beaches everywhere you go
Geep all over the place, including the roads in the mountains
The beautiful mountains as a backdrop in scenery
Driving a manual car (okay, not specific to Greece, but I have an automatic back home)
Ridiculously fantastic weather, warm sun with no humidity
Tim, the bearded guide at the Recreation Center who knows everything and everyone in Crete
Swimming though caves at the beach!
GMT, Greek Maybe Time, nobody is in a hurry here
3 hour dinners finished with free Raki
Wandering around downtown Chania
Caves literally everywhere you go, and tiny Greek Orthodox churches built into lots of them
The best olive oil and feta cheese I’ve ever had
Old Greek men sitting in plastic chairs on the sidewalks at 10 AM, talking and watching the traffic go by
Never being carded because the drinking age is 16
Listening to Chania Radio in the car
Tiny villages with winding streets that barely fit our compact car
Being able to order sparkling water at all the restaurants
The first time I came to Crete, we only stopped for a day, which we spent eating cheese pies, hiking to an ancient monastery in a cave, and wandering the labyrinthine streets of Chania. I was lucky enough to come back for three months, but it was winter and I had to spend a lot of time at work studying. Coming back for another three months in late spring and early summer has been amazing and totally different from winter.
This time around we’ve gone canyoneering, rock climbing, hiking, kayaking, and beaching, and I’ve loved every minute of it. I’m trying to be anonymous on this blog so I’ve blocked out my face in all the photos.
I’m definitely coming back to Crete someday, and I really want to bring my family here too. I’ve also decided that if I ever come back, I’m doing a multi-day kayak trip in Milos, one of the Greek islands. Just google search some images and you’ll see why. Being in this part of the world almost feels like a dream sometimes, because of the beauty and unique landscapes.
At the summit of Psiloritis, the highest point in Crete
During the Samaria Gorge race
Kourtaliotiko Gorge, we were so amazed and blown away by this waterfall in a gorge!
Santorini! We only had a day here, but it was pretty surreal to actually be there!
The summit of Mt. Gingilos
Kayaking through caves, one of the most amazing things I've done!